Halifax: Canada's East Coast Playground

Halifax likes to boast that it has more pubs per capita than any other city in Canada.  That says something about the city’s capacity to party.  So whether you are visiting Halifax for the annual Pride festival – this year it runs July 20-29 – or just to take in the sights, be prepared to have a good time.

Though Halifax, with a population of just under 400,000, is not a huge city, it is the largest city in Atlantic Canada and a hub for Maritimers. So it is a regional capital and cultural centre in addition to being the capital of Nova Scotia.  It is also a young city, in large part because it is home to several post-secondary educational institutions, including Dalhousie University and the Nova Scotia College of Art and Design. (During the school year, those students help make downtown Halifax particularly lively.)

LGBT life in Halifax is not concentrated in a village, the way it is in Montreal and Toronto. It is more spread out. The city’s funky north end (the area just north of downtown) is definitely a point of interest, but there are attractions all over – and not necessarily in bars.

The best tip for an LGBT visitor from out of town, say the locals, is to find a way to connect with someone in the community.  “That’s the key to Halifax,” says Halifax resident (and former Calgarian) Scott Marquardt. “Get to know the locals.”

“Maritimers are welcoming,” he adds. “If they know someone is visiting, they are proud of the city and will tell you what to do.”  For a quick orientation about LGBT attractions, visit the Rainbow Halifax tab on the Destination Halifax website. It will serve as a starting point for connecting with the LGBT community.

Halifax is above all a port city, and the downtown core rises from the waterfront up to the Citadel, a historic fortress that dominates the city.  “Rises” is the operative word. Think hills. “The city is a little San-Francisco-y if you start at the waterfront,” notes Krista Snow, the chair of 2012 Pride.

The historic Citadel is a must for history lovers. You can set your watch by the noon gun they fire from the Citadel every day of the year (except Christmas) and watch regular manoeuvres by infantry detachments dressed in 19th-century uniforms. The Halifax Citadel Regimental Association puts on the show.  And down at the waterfront, the Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21 is a great place to research family history.

The Halifax Seaport Farmers Market, also located on the waterfront, is open seven days a week in the summer but is busiest on Saturdays. It’s a great place to find local produce and products, including a wide range of Nova Scotia wines. (Nova Scotia’s Annapolis Valley is a big wine region, “the Napa Valley of Nova Scotia,” says Lynn Ledwidge of Destination Halifax; it’s a day trip away.)

The Historic Properties along the waterfront is another must-see, says Snow. “It’s one of my favourite places,” she says. In addition to the pubs and shops, there’s the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, famous for its relics from the Titanic. And for a great and inexpensive view of the Halifax waterfront, take the ferry to Dartmouth. It’s $2.25 each way.

For shopping, take a walk along Spring Garden Road.  And for nightlife, many of the city’s bars feature live music; in fact, the city has a very active music scene.

One important aspect of Halifax, says Ledwidge, is the proximity of nature.  The biggest piece of ‘nature’ is the ocean.  “In 15 minutes of downtown Halifax, you can be alone on a pristine white sand beach,” says Ledwidge, adding that hardy surfers can be seen tackling waves on the Atlantic 12 months a year.

Pride

This year marks the 25th anniversary of Halifax Pride, and the city is up for a party.  It’s Canada’s fourth largest Pride festival, and the largest one east of Montreal, notes Krista Snow, the chair of this year’s festival.  “We’re hoping for 100,000 people,” adds Snow.

Pride runs July 20-29 and like Halifax’s LGBT life, its events are spread out around the city.

“Twenty-five years ago it was a protest more than it was a festival,” says Snow, adding that nowadays Halifax Pride is more party than political. “I guess that speaks to how far we’ve come.” (It probably also speaks to the city’s desire to party.)

From the Drag Queen Bingo to the Sunset Cruise, to the Dykes versus Divas softball game, there are all sorts of events during the week. The Queer Acts Theatre Festival is part of Pride.

Pride culminates on the weekend of July 27-29, with a parade on Saturday the 28th and big dances on Friday and Saturday nights at the Garrison Grounds at the base of Citadel Hill.

“We’re just a lot of fun,” says Snow. “You should stop by!”

Daniel Drolet is an Ottawa writer, a member of Travel Gay Canada and president of Éclair Communications.