Halifax likes to boast that it has more pubs per
capita than any other city in Canada. That says something about the city’s capacity to
party. So whether you are visiting
Halifax for the annual Pride festival – this year it runs July 20-29 – or just
to take in the sights, be prepared to have a good time.
Though Halifax, with a population of just under
400,000, is not a huge city, it is the largest city in Atlantic Canada and a
hub for Maritimers. So it is a regional capital and cultural centre in addition
to being the capital of Nova Scotia.
It is also a young city, in large part because it is home to several post-secondary
educational institutions, including Dalhousie University and the Nova Scotia
College of Art and Design. (During the school year, those students help make
downtown Halifax particularly lively.)
LGBT life in Halifax is not concentrated in a village,
the way it is in Montreal and Toronto. It is more spread out. The city’s funky
north end (the area just north of downtown) is definitely a point of interest,
but there are attractions all over – and not necessarily in bars.
The best tip for an LGBT visitor from out of town, say
the locals, is to find a way to connect with someone in the community. “That’s the key to Halifax,” says
Halifax resident (and former Calgarian) Scott Marquardt. “Get to know the
locals.”
“Maritimers are welcoming,” he adds. “If they know
someone is visiting, they are proud of the city and will tell you what to do.” For a quick orientation about LGBT attractions,
visit the Rainbow
Halifax tab on the Destination Halifax website. It will serve
as a starting point for connecting with the LGBT community.
Halifax is above all a port city, and the downtown
core rises from the waterfront up to the Citadel, a historic fortress that
dominates the city. “Rises” is the
operative word. Think hills. “The city is a little San-Francisco-y if you start
at the waterfront,” notes Krista Snow, the chair of 2012 Pride.
The historic Citadel is a must for history lovers. You
can set your watch by the noon gun they fire from the Citadel every day of the
year (except Christmas) and watch regular manoeuvres by infantry detachments
dressed in 19th-century uniforms. The Halifax Citadel Regimental
Association puts on the show. And down at the waterfront, the Canadian Museum of Immigration at
Pier 21 is a great place to research family history.
The Halifax Seaport Farmers Market, also located on the waterfront, is open seven days a week in the
summer but is busiest on Saturdays. It’s a great place to find local produce
and products, including a wide range of Nova Scotia wines. (Nova Scotia’s
Annapolis Valley is a big wine region, “the Napa Valley of Nova Scotia,” says
Lynn Ledwidge of Destination Halifax; it’s a day trip away.)
The Historic Properties along the waterfront is another
must-see, says Snow. “It’s one of my favourite places,” she says. In addition
to the pubs and shops, there’s the Maritime
Museum of the Atlantic, famous for its relics from the
Titanic. And for a great and inexpensive view of the Halifax waterfront, take
the ferry to Dartmouth. It’s $2.25 each way.
For shopping, take a walk along Spring Garden Road. And for nightlife, many of the city’s
bars feature live music; in fact, the city has a very active music scene.
One important aspect of Halifax, says Ledwidge, is the
proximity of nature. The biggest
piece of ‘nature’ is the ocean. “In
15 minutes of downtown Halifax, you can be alone on a pristine white sand
beach,” says Ledwidge, adding that hardy surfers can be seen tackling waves on
the Atlantic 12 months a year.
Pride
This year marks the 25th anniversary of Halifax
Pride, and the city is up for a party. It’s Canada’s fourth largest Pride
festival, and the largest one east of Montreal, notes Krista Snow, the chair of
this year’s festival. “We’re
hoping for 100,000 people,” adds Snow.
Pride runs July 20-29 and like Halifax’s LGBT life,
its events are spread out around the city.
“Twenty-five years ago it was a protest more than it
was a festival,” says Snow, adding that nowadays Halifax Pride is more party
than political. “I guess that speaks to how far we’ve come.” (It probably also
speaks to the city’s desire to party.)
From the Drag Queen Bingo to the Sunset Cruise, to the
Dykes versus Divas softball game, there are all sorts of events during the
week. The Queer Acts Theatre Festival is part of Pride.
Pride culminates on the weekend of July 27-29, with a
parade on Saturday the 28th and big dances on Friday and Saturday nights at the
Garrison Grounds at the base of Citadel Hill.
“We’re just a lot of fun,” says Snow. “You should stop
by!”
Daniel Drolet is an Ottawa writer, a member of Travel Gay Canada and
president of Éclair Communications.
